Mad Men Challenge II

JuliaBobbin asks... are you in? Oh, I so want to be. It seems so unpractical. I mean, I should make things that I just need, right? I haven't even worn the LBD I made for last year's challenge. I will though. It's black, and actually work appropriate, amazingly. It's just that it's sleeveless, and of course... it's winter. How many times can I use the word it's?

Mad Men Challenge 2012

Nope, I can't resist, and the deadline is April 19. So that's workable. Plus, I have plenty of patterns, and actually a couple of possibilities that I was seriously considering from last year. Will it be shirtdress or sheath? Early 60s or late? Betty, Joan or Peggy? So stay tuned, and I'll let the challenge unfold.

Mad Men Challenge Dress Revealed

Does hand sewing take everyone a long time? Or at least longer than you think it should? Well, never mind that! My Mad Men Challenge Megan inspired Little Black Dress is complete.

The actress that plays Megan is young, tall, thin and gorgeous, so I hesitate to re-show my inspiration picture. Aw heck, scroll down to Monday's post to see it, hee hee.


Back already? How'd I do?


Some details:

• Simplicity 6094 (that's in Monday's post, too) was the basis. My pattern is a size 16, bust 38 released in 1973. I had to narrow the bodice, changing the shape of the armholes and the neckline just a bit, and I made the back neckline lower, though not as low as the inspiration dress.

• Fabric is a cotton pique that I picked up at Mood during my New York trip. It has a wonderful hand and a slight sheen making it kind of dressy. Also, it is machine washable.
• The cotton will make it nice for the 2 weddings that we may attend in Texas this summer. Where it's really hot.
• You're looking at a hand-picked invisible zipper.
• What?
• I'm using my back up Bernina and I don't have an invisible zipper foot. I inserted it, by machine, with a regular zipper foot, but there was an unsightly gap, showing too much zipper. I solved it by meeting the edges of the fabric over the zipper, pressing and then using the prick stitch to secure in place. Not nearly as time consuming and as curse worthy as trying to pick out the black thread stitches from a cushy pique.
• Can you see the trim around the neckline? It's not quite as big and showy as the inspiration dress, but more of an understated style that suits me.
• I'm fine with those wrinkles in the back.

• Much lower cut that I anticipated. I do realize that I had complete control over that, but it wasn't until I tried it on for hem placement that I became completely aware of the cleavage factor. Well, it IS a LBD for going out.
• I tried to lighten up this picture a bit so you can see the underbust seaming detail. There is also a center front seam. Those seams enhance the fit over a simple shift. My muslin fit tighter, though I didn't make another muslin after I made the bodice changes and I think that affected the tightness and where the underbust seam hit on my body.

• You still can't really see the trim very well. I purchased it at M&J Trimmings, also on the NYC trip.

I really like how it turned out. I didn't line it (the heat factor), but did line the front bodice piece where I made the cut-out, simply sewing right sides together the lining and the bodice where I wanted my square, cutting out the center of the square, understitching the lining, and pushing it through to the inside.

The rest of the seams are serged. I did use regular neckline and armhole facings, pinking the edges because of the bulk factor, and catch-stitching them all to the inside. I used narrow hem lace at the hem which I made 2-5/8" deep (after cutting off 5"!! these patterns were made for tall women). The hem was slip-stitched.

Am I forgetting anything? Probably. How about a couple of parting shots:

Mad Men Challenge Update

I haven't mentioned this particular challenge lately, but that doesn't mean that things haven't been happening behind the scenes. In fact, I was really, really hoping to have it finished today, just in time for the premiere. Alas, it was not to be. I'm going to try to get some handsewing done on it tonight while I watch, but it's black, and it's night. Two factors that mean the possibility for success is low. We'll see.


In the meantime, I'll show you what I've chosen to do for the challenge. I'm going to challenge my inner young, cute, sexy secretary/nanny and am choosing this as my inspiration:

source

And I'm using Simplicity 6094 as it's basis.

It's not for sale yet in my shop, but an eerily similar one is here. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will be done tomorrow. Tuesday at the latest... be sure to check back!


And, sshhhhh, it's about to start!

Mad Men Challenge Pattern Choices

Before I dive into this post, just want to point out that I have activated the reply ability in the comments, so if you ask a question, that's where you can check back for an answer.


Okee-dokee. Where were we? Choosing a dress for the Mad Men Challenge. Well, frankly, I love them all, and may attempt to make, well, more than one of them this spring and summer, but no guarantees. For the challenge, I'm seriously leaning toward the black dress, for the simple reason that I can easily find black fabric. Is that cheating? Hmmm, no. I don't think so. For a review of the actual dress inspiration photos, go here or scroll down a little, it's just the post before last.


I spent yesterday tracing. I have an ample supply of vintage patterns, and I found 3 that may just work for several of the looks.

Simplicity 4003, a basic shirtdress. Mrs. Draper certainly wears a lot of these, and I do love the bodice on this one. Not as crazy about the skirt and the side zipper. Seriously, what is the point of buttoning up the front if you have to zip the side too. But this one has the simple, no yoke bodice silhouette, and 3/4 length sleeves for fall. I have other shirtdress patterns to look at, and will adapt the button opening to extend into the skirt, and really, make a much fuller skirt (possibly).

The sheath/wiggle dress from Butterick 2881 is the basic silhouette for many of Joan Holloway's dresses. The teal one is no exception. It does appear to have a wrap/tie style jacket over it, or perhaps she's wearing a skirt, top, jacket (but I don't think so). I have another pattern with a perfect buttonless jacket with a collar that I have plans for. Just a bit of tinkering might make it work (I haven't scanned it yet, but soon. Also, for that teal dress, I'm just not sure what fabric to make it out of. Any suggestions?

Finally, for the LBD, Simplicity 7509, which is about as basic as it gets, and is the perfect template for adding embellishments. It is basically a sloper, to get a perfect fit, and then make changes. If you read Carolyn's blog, you'll know that this is exactly what she does with her TNT dress pattern. If you don't read it, go check it out... she is a wealth of information.


Where was I? Oh yeah, I've got some ideas to play around with the cut out, so I hope to get a muslin made by early next week. The bonus of all these patterns for me, is that they are all my size.  I've traced them all though, so if you're still looking for your Mad Men Challenge pattern, they are available. Use the code MADMEN10 for 10% off! (You lovely readers can use that code for any of the patterns in my shop, not just these).

Mad Men Challenge: What to Make?

Two challenges/sew alongs (the Minoru and the Ruby Slip) recently committed and I'm ready for another one. The badge is already there... the Mad Men Challenge. Step 1 is what to make! So many gorgeous dresses and outfits make their appearance on Mad Men, but I want to choose one that will fit into my 2012 lifestyle. Then the challenge will be to find a pattern or patterns, and finally fabric. The fabric might be the hardest part! Oh, yeah, and narrowing down the choices.


Let's get right to those choices and see what I'm thinking about (in no particular order):

source

Betty in dots. Cute, but maybe too cute. I do like the simple style though.

source

Betty loves a good shirtdress for daytime wear (at least in the earlier seasons when she was married to Don). I love the sleeveless ones, there's a peach one that I found, but this is my favorite. Finding a good stripe will be the challenge though.

source

More dots. Off white sheath with an adorable dotted sash. Less opportunity for wear for me though.

source

I love the one on the right. Especially the color.

source

Granted, a dressy, going out dress. But I have "make a LBD" on my  list of things to make, so it would be crossing off 2 things with one dress. Win-win! Of course, this might not be my final choice.


Which one do you like? Are you doing the challenge?

A Little Fantasy Sewing

Friends, I haven't been sewing. No. I haven't lost my sewing mojo (a term I personally loathe, by the way... no judgment for those who like to use it). It's just that the sewing "studio" aka the former guest room has had it's decorating upheaval, and there is currently no furniture... at all... in it. The walls have been repainted a delightful shade of aqua (Valspar calls it Distant Valley), and the carpets are awaiting the arrival of the carpet cleaners as I type. This is a fairly accurate representation of the color:

OK, so if there isn't any real sewing, this was kind of a long introduction into some fantasy sewing. Follow along and see what you think...

Valentine's Day is just around the corner (can it be?) so I've chosen Simplicity 5663, a Mad Men style 1960s dress for this Fantasy Sew.

I love the jewel tones on the envelope illustration, and I think I'll stick with those. If I want to go completely over the top, how about this silk satin faille from Gorgeous Fabrics:

I'll make view 1, and the pattern calls for 2-1/8 yards of 45" wide fabric, but at $30 a yard, I'll just "order" 2 yards. Definitely a muslin is called for here. On first glance, the only design change I might make is to lower the neckline just a tad. With my shape, the front waistline gathers are a good idea, but a muslin should let me know if they look too poofy.

OK, our fantasy dress is made, complete with handpicked zipper, and now we need some accessories. I love the brooch idea from view 2, so I'll go with this one:

Brooch from Crimson Vintage

This brooch also has a pendant link, so it can do double duty.

I thought about a rhinestone belt buckle, but that would just be a bit too much. A fabric covered buckle with supplies from A Fashionable Stitch will be perfect. What else do we need? How about some garnet earrings? My friend, Amy has these beauties in her shop, and I love that the red is not too matchy with the fabric:

Earrings from Amy Fine Designs

Finally, let's pick out some shoes! A girl's gotta have new shoes with a fabulous dress like this.

I love the vintage-y vibe of these Kate Spade shoes, and hey, they're on sale!

Kate Spade Kylie from Zappos Couture

The only thing left is dinner reservations at a fabulous restaurant!

The Thing About Vintage Patterns

The thing is... you can become obsessed by them. Not actually using them, mind you, but simply acquiring them. And I don't mean shopping for a specific pattern or style and paying a pretty penny for them.


No. I'm talking about happening upon a pattern stash at a garage sale, or an estate sale, maybe a flea market, and getting a bunch for a steal. Up until a couple of weeks ago, I had mostly struck out. Now, I'm not an "every weekend" kind of garage saler, so I suppose my luck might be better if I was. But I do usually scan the newspaper on Thursdays to see if any listings mention sewing. I guess you might say that my obsession is kind of haphazard.


Nevertheless, a couple of weeks ago I hit the jackpot! There were at least a couple hundred patterns, probably more and all for 20 cents each. Yes. I was picky though. I didn't buy the whole lot, but went through each box and picked the best ones. I have my standards! Only a couple from the 1980s, and no children's patterns (there were a bunch of those). It turns out I picked the most from the mid-1960s.


Anyway, I plan to use a few, and trace a few more, but I'm putting the rest in my Down the Street etsy shop. And all for reasonable prices. And, please feel free to use that coupon listed over in the side bar, sewingblog15, for 15% off everything in the shop.


Enough reading... here are a few of my favorites!