A '70s Halter: Simplicity 6358

Finished! Simplicity 6358. From 1974.

I saw this pattern, and knew I had to make it. View 3. And I knew the fabric, though theoretically, I'm kind of calling this a muslin. Bust 34 is a bit small for me, and certainly through the waist I had make some serious width adjustments. I also did a highly technical measurement from the center of my neck in front, down around under the arm, and then back up to the center back, and determined that I needed to add about an inch to both the front and back "armhole" length.


The fabric I used is a black and white plaid cotton that I bought for 50 cents at an estate sale. One of the reasons this fabric and pattern called out to each other was that I only had about 2/3 of a yard. And it's a plaid. I'm not sure my matching is spot on, but did you see the mention of muslin above? The armholes have facings, but without enough fabric, I just used self made bias tape.


Also, that collar! It's supposed to be 4 inches wide. FOUR INCHES! My neck is not that long, people. The pattern piece has you cut it out in one piece, on the bias, and then fold it over. Easy, but I didn't have enough fabric for that, even narrowing it to 2 inches. I added a 3/8" seam allowance to the fold line, and cut a 3" wide bias strip which I had to piece. Then from a scrap, I cut another strip that became the collar facing.


I would have liked to add a bit more length to the entire thing, but there was that lack of fabric thing. Next time.

See how short it is? It's not tucked in. I did add waistline darts to snug it up a bit. Hmm, that picture looks oddly blurry. The skirt is an old one of mine from Ann Taylor. Do you like that length? It's hiked up to just under the boobs. Here's what it looks like at it's original length, and when I looked at the picture I thought it looked a bit dowdy.

You are supposed to put hooks at the back of the collar, but I left those off for fear that they would just catch in my hair and be annoying.

This kind of top can be really versatile... throw on a blazer or a cardigan, and the covered up look goes to the office or church.  Take the jacket off, and it's ready for evening. And it's also the perfect backdrop for a great necklace. You'll just have to take my word for it, because I was quickly running out of daylight, and the dogs and the husband were anxious for dinner.

The Big Zipper in the Room

... or why I haven't shown you any pictures of my made-over studio...

There it is, people. A door length zipper. Awe-inspiring, no?


But let's back up. Have you ever done any remodeling? If you have (or maybe even if you haven't), you know that one thing leads to another, and this is definitely a case of that. For your enjoyment, let's go through a brief outline of those one things leading to other things...

• Kyle moves into a house in Macon (whoa, how does this fit in?)and needs furniture
• We give him the furniture in the guest room/studio, making it possible to simply have a new studio... woohoo!!
• We decide to remodel the kitchen
• Get quotes and pick a designer/contractor
• But wait... the kitchen floor is seriously not level. Can't have that.
• Luckily, the kitchen is directly above the open storage area in the basement. Engineers descend.
• A plan is hatched. Must clean out the basement. Studio redecorating is fast-tracked. Woohoo!!
• The basement is cleared out, and a little plastic room pops in.

• With another big zipper. This is to hold all the cement dust in when then cut a hole in the basement floor. It works.
• And now we have this:

• Clever, right? It's like a giant car jack, hoisting up the kitchen floor 1/16" of an inch at a time. Those little red "feet" on the bottoms of the outside posts are really the jacks that the guys come in and raise up almost every morning. The floor has been raised 7/16" as of last Wednesday, and we're giving the walls a chance to adjust so they don't crack. So far, so good.
• Leading us back out of the basement, through the big zipper:

All, of this is to say that while my sewing studio is completely usable, it's kind of a mess with things stacked up in it that will go back into the basement. And I haven't put up any of the decorations, and really made it pretty. Just functional. Soon, I'm promising myself, soon.

I have big sewing goals this week, too... but lots of appointments, etc, too. Probably too ambitious, I know. But on the 13th, Laura and I are going to New York for her spring break, and I need a new dress! Vintage pattern made up in a red ponte knit. Oh, it will be delightful.

Mad Men Challenge Pattern Choices

Before I dive into this post, just want to point out that I have activated the reply ability in the comments, so if you ask a question, that's where you can check back for an answer.


Okee-dokee. Where were we? Choosing a dress for the Mad Men Challenge. Well, frankly, I love them all, and may attempt to make, well, more than one of them this spring and summer, but no guarantees. For the challenge, I'm seriously leaning toward the black dress, for the simple reason that I can easily find black fabric. Is that cheating? Hmmm, no. I don't think so. For a review of the actual dress inspiration photos, go here or scroll down a little, it's just the post before last.


I spent yesterday tracing. I have an ample supply of vintage patterns, and I found 3 that may just work for several of the looks.

Simplicity 4003, a basic shirtdress. Mrs. Draper certainly wears a lot of these, and I do love the bodice on this one. Not as crazy about the skirt and the side zipper. Seriously, what is the point of buttoning up the front if you have to zip the side too. But this one has the simple, no yoke bodice silhouette, and 3/4 length sleeves for fall. I have other shirtdress patterns to look at, and will adapt the button opening to extend into the skirt, and really, make a much fuller skirt (possibly).

The sheath/wiggle dress from Butterick 2881 is the basic silhouette for many of Joan Holloway's dresses. The teal one is no exception. It does appear to have a wrap/tie style jacket over it, or perhaps she's wearing a skirt, top, jacket (but I don't think so). I have another pattern with a perfect buttonless jacket with a collar that I have plans for. Just a bit of tinkering might make it work (I haven't scanned it yet, but soon. Also, for that teal dress, I'm just not sure what fabric to make it out of. Any suggestions?

Finally, for the LBD, Simplicity 7509, which is about as basic as it gets, and is the perfect template for adding embellishments. It is basically a sloper, to get a perfect fit, and then make changes. If you read Carolyn's blog, you'll know that this is exactly what she does with her TNT dress pattern. If you don't read it, go check it out... she is a wealth of information.


Where was I? Oh yeah, I've got some ideas to play around with the cut out, so I hope to get a muslin made by early next week. The bonus of all these patterns for me, is that they are all my size.  I've traced them all though, so if you're still looking for your Mad Men Challenge pattern, they are available. Use the code MADMEN10 for 10% off! (You lovely readers can use that code for any of the patterns in my shop, not just these).

The Imperfect Ponte Pant

I had such high hopes. I used my already fitted Colette Clover pattern, and purchased some lovely navy ponte knit from FabricMart. Of course they would turn out fabulous, right? Not so much.


I'm only giving you one picture, so let's save it til the end, m'kay? Scroll down if you just can't wait another second, but if you can wait, here are some highlights and lowlights, in no particular order.

• Decided on some pockets, a la Sallie. I think it was the ponte, but I do take some responsibility.
• There are pockets, but they have been sewn shut.
• The pants turned out oddly high waisted. I scooped out about an inch and a half down in the front, because the back seemed fine.
• The back really isn't fine, needs to be just a bit lower.
• Decided on the side zipper, but not an invisible one.
• I caught some skin when wearing my other pair of clovers that do have an invisible zipper. Ouch. Plus, I live in fear of invisible zipper failure.
• Decided to do a lapped regular zipper.
• Ripped it out one time.
• Re-inserted. Yikes, it was oddly lumpy in places where I don't actually have lumps.
• Ripped it out again.
• Decided on NO zipper. With the knit, I can pull them on.
• The inside looks like a dog's breakfast. (I love that phrase, I hope I'm using it correctly... like is it A dog's breakfast, or just dog's breakfast?)
• No one can see the inside, thankfully.
• Ponte doesn't fray.
• I made a blind hem. It looks great. They are maybe a tad long. That's ok.
• I'm not sure I'll wear them in public.
• Then again, they would be really comfortable on a plane trip.
• Still. Maybe they will just be house pants.

I know. Super cute shoes, right?!

Mad Men Challenge: What to Make?

Two challenges/sew alongs (the Minoru and the Ruby Slip) recently committed and I'm ready for another one. The badge is already there... the Mad Men Challenge. Step 1 is what to make! So many gorgeous dresses and outfits make their appearance on Mad Men, but I want to choose one that will fit into my 2012 lifestyle. Then the challenge will be to find a pattern or patterns, and finally fabric. The fabric might be the hardest part! Oh, yeah, and narrowing down the choices.


Let's get right to those choices and see what I'm thinking about (in no particular order):

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Betty in dots. Cute, but maybe too cute. I do like the simple style though.

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Betty loves a good shirtdress for daytime wear (at least in the earlier seasons when she was married to Don). I love the sleeveless ones, there's a peach one that I found, but this is my favorite. Finding a good stripe will be the challenge though.

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More dots. Off white sheath with an adorable dotted sash. Less opportunity for wear for me though.

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I love the one on the right. Especially the color.

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Granted, a dressy, going out dress. But I have "make a LBD" on my  list of things to make, so it would be crossing off 2 things with one dress. Win-win! Of course, this might not be my final choice.


Which one do you like? Are you doing the challenge?

Finished: The Ruby Slip

Check another challenge off the list! Yesterday, I finished the ruby slip that I started with Sherry's sew along way back in December! But the holidays happened, and then I had to send my serger off to the repair guy, and then, and then... you all know how that works.


The slip is actually a quick sew, and once I sat down to it, I think it was done in about an hour.


Not a lot to say about it. It's been awhile, but I think I cut the size 12 and didn't make any alterations. Next time (and there will be a next time) I'll make the back a little bit narrower and put the straps a little closer together in the back and that will help with the fall off the shoulder issue. Oh, almost forgot... Sherry had 2 lengths in her pattern, and I created a 3rd that was somewhere between her 2. It hits right above my knee. Sshhhh, don't tell Sherry, but I just eyeballed it when I was tracing the pattern. Oh, sure, I did go back and do a quick measure to make sure it was right.


The little pink flower thing you'll see. Yeah, I think I'll take that off and just put on a little ribbon bow.

Finished: The Sewaholic Minoru Jacket

Yep, I "participated" in the Sewaholic Minoru jacket sew along. And by participated, I mean that I made my Minoru jacket at the same time that the sew along was happening. Only a lot quicker. And this is not a criticism of the sew along, but more of an issue of when I could actually sit down and sew.




Never mind that, though, and let's just get on with seeing the pictures and some observations. First, my fabric is a raincoating from Gorgeous Fabrics, and the lining is from fabric.com. With that out of the way, here ya go complete with observations:

• this is definitely not a beginner pattern. With the sew along, advanced begginer. Without it, intermediate at least.
• my semi-plasticky raincoating frayed a lot.
• if you look closely, you will see that the hem doesn't line up in the center front.

• I cut the size 12, and only made one alteration
• I shortened the sleeves by 2-1/2" inches!
• my cuffs look a little weird. I think that's more of a fabric issue.

• I love the collar with the zipper and hidden hood.
• did you read about my fraying fabric?
• I should have lined the hood, even with the finishing of the seam.
• it is quite possible to iron this raincoating fabric, even without a press cloth. From the line going horizontally across my butt, it appears that I missed a spot.

• I didn't add the inside pocket because with all the coats I've ever owned with inside pockets, I've never used them.
• I think I used the wrong side of the lining as the right side. It was hard to tell. Oops.
• my inside hem looks, well, pretty bad. Did you read about the uneven hem meeting in the front? All related.

• I did put outside pockets in the side seams. I can't have a coat without them.
• I put them a little bit too low.
• Can you tell that I'm actually wearing it in the rain?

• though entirely functional, I look dumb with the hood up, and this is the best pic I have of it being worn. None from the front.
• I love the length.

Conclusion: it's a great jacket pattern! I particularly like it in this lightweight version. If I were to make it with a bulkier fabric/lining, I would go up a size, and then make a better adjustment to the back length so it didn't get too bunchy.