Fitness Goals -- Bridesmaid Series (Sort of)

This is kind of a dual purpose post. First, just want to explain the absence of any sewing projects here on what, on first glance, might appear to be a sewing blog. I have embarked on a new diet plan. Let's call it a lifestyle eating plan rather than a diet. Really, it was either that, or amass an entire new wardrobe, because the current one was apparently shrinking. Phase 1 is 21 days, and while that sounds like a formal plan... it's not really. Just how long I'm giving it to see if it works for me, and if it does, I'll certainly tell y'all how I did it. I'm about halfway through this experiment, and am cautiously optimistic.

That means that I just don't want to start a sewing project if my measurements will be changing. Seems logical.

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The Bridesmaid part of this post.

Ah, "fitness goals". That's the phrase we use in our note when a 'maid wants to order a size smaller than recommended because she is going to lose some weight, work out more, etc. Sometimes those goals are met and the dress fits like a glove, and sometimes, well, you know the end of that story.

Me Made May 2013

Here's the deal. I wasn't going to participate in the Me Made May fun this year. I mean, seriously, I work 6 days a week most of the time, and can only wear black so that's really boring. I hate that part of my job, and just couldn't inflict that on y'all.

But then... wait! I'm taking a vacation in May, heading to Virginia for daughter Laura's graduation from graduate school. Five whole days of no black! I'm currently working on the muslin for the "graduation" dress. Fingers crossed it will work, because it's meant to go with an orphan jacket that I made a while back. This one. I've never worn it.

OK, I've totally digressed. Here's my pledge:

I, Ellen, hereby pledge to participate in a Mini-Me-Made-May, wearing at least me made garment on my days off, and on my

mid-May vacation. In addition, I'll feature one post where I show off the capsule of black things I've made to wear to work.

I haven't figured out the posting plan, but it'll happen. And I will by joining the flickr group to post the pictures.

Pavlova Wrap Top #1... Finished!

I'm such a sucker for a sewing competition. It takes the sew along to the next level, really, and totally keeps me engaged. I've finished my first wrap top, and I have to admit... I'm a little disappointed. Not with the pattern, or even the sewing, or the fit. Steph warned us... a thicker sweater knit might not be suitable. That's essentially what I used.

It was in a free bundle from FabricMart Fabrics, so I'm not even 100% sure of its contents, but there IS something synthetic in it. The ribs are stiff, and didn't want to cooperate under the needle. But after reading about Steph's crinkle linen version, and how the ties in her woven top didn't stretch, and she tied it in the back, I think maybe MAYBE this one will work.

OK, enough disclaiming. No picture of me in it... just on the dress form (I don't call her anything, but perhaps she does need a name).

 Wrapped and tied in the back. For the record, I made the size 35 straight up (i.e., no alterations at all).

Tied in the back. See the size of that knot? It's a whopper. I swear this fabric didn't feel that thick in a single layer!

Tied in the front. It barely reaches on DF. On me, yeah, reaches even less. And it's really thick in the back (not pictured).

Bottom line... it's going to have to hang out in the magic closet for awhile. Lucky for it, we're approaching hot weather time, and it's more of a spring/fall thickness. Definitely not summer.

And, I'm hoping tomorrow to finish the skirt. No promises on that though.

Bangs or No Bangs

If you only stop in to see the amazing sewing that happens here, then fair warning that this is not about sewing. It's about hair. So, since I've started working, I've already gone from blonde to red, and don't intend to go back anytime soon.

But, oh, I'm not sure I'm ready to completely give up bangs. Really, I've had them most of my life. I'm here to get your opinions, and according to my reader stats, there are a few of you out there. Come out of the woodwork, and leave me YOUR opinion in the comments. It can be as short as one or two words (bangs, or no bangs). Seriously, I need your help. ;)

I'll give you some help... photos of me both with and without bangs. But that's all the help you'll get from me. The order of the photos has no bearing on how I'm feeling about the situation.

Let the voting begin! 

Mad Men Challenge II

JuliaBobbin asks... are you in? Oh, I so want to be. It seems so unpractical. I mean, I should make things that I just need, right? I haven't even worn the LBD I made for last year's challenge. I will though. It's black, and actually work appropriate, amazingly. It's just that it's sleeveless, and of course... it's winter. How many times can I use the word it's?

Mad Men Challenge 2012

Nope, I can't resist, and the deadline is April 19. So that's workable. Plus, I have plenty of patterns, and actually a couple of possibilities that I was seriously considering from last year. Will it be shirtdress or sheath? Early 60s or late? Betty, Joan or Peggy? So stay tuned, and I'll let the challenge unfold.

Big News

Oh, so many plans to sew. I've traced the Sewaholic Alma blouse. And one of my vintage patterns. And then I get a call Thursday evening. That leads to an interview on Friday afternoon. Which leads to an offer for a job that I'm starting Monday!

Monday!!

That's tomorrow!

You read that right!

The job is in a local bridal salon not 10 minutes from my house, and I will be working in the Mother of the Bride/Bridesmaid/Special Occasion department. I'm really excited!! I've needed something to get me out of the house. As much as I love my Etsy shop (which will continue), and my Etsy online friends, and my blogging friends, I need to talk to live people face to face.

The downside:

You can only wear solid black. I had to do some emergency shopping yesterday, and you are seeing the results of the shopping plus me pulling out every wearable black item in my closet. I've set up this work closet in Laura's room, and now I'll have a work dressing room.

I've also pulled out several pieces of black fabric that I have, and there will be some sewing. I know it's not all that exciting, and of course, when I'm not working, I will probably not wear a stitch of black, so you will see color again. Soon, I promise! At least once my mind and my body get used to the routine.

Do you know that it's been 25 years since I've worked at a full time job? It's going to be a shock!!

Tonight though, we're headed out to a celebratory dinner. And I don't think I'll wear black!

Me Made May 2012

It's coming! May will be here before you know it, and Zoe, of So Zo', is leading the "me made" charge again this year (but only once this year, so don't miss out). Last year, I participated in both the June and September "me mades" and learned a lot about my own particular self stitched wardrobe, and I expect I will this year as well.


Secretly, I was kind of hoping for a cooler month, but alas, the temp here in Atlanta will be a lot like it was last June and September so there will be some stuff from last year. I have made some new things though, and have several items in the queue, of course, that will make their appearances. In fact, yesterday, I cut out 2 more Refrews!


So, in accordance with the "rules" for Me Made months... here's my pledge:


'I, Ellen of It's a Sewing Life, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '12. I endeavour to wear at least one me-made garment each day for the duration of May 2012, and to increase my me-made wardrobe by at least 4 garments.'

That increase, by the way, refers to at least 4 new things made in May. Hopefully a couple more... we'll just have to see.

Are you in?

Mad Men Challenge Dress Revealed

Does hand sewing take everyone a long time? Or at least longer than you think it should? Well, never mind that! My Mad Men Challenge Megan inspired Little Black Dress is complete.

The actress that plays Megan is young, tall, thin and gorgeous, so I hesitate to re-show my inspiration picture. Aw heck, scroll down to Monday's post to see it, hee hee.


Back already? How'd I do?


Some details:

• Simplicity 6094 (that's in Monday's post, too) was the basis. My pattern is a size 16, bust 38 released in 1973. I had to narrow the bodice, changing the shape of the armholes and the neckline just a bit, and I made the back neckline lower, though not as low as the inspiration dress.

• Fabric is a cotton pique that I picked up at Mood during my New York trip. It has a wonderful hand and a slight sheen making it kind of dressy. Also, it is machine washable.
• The cotton will make it nice for the 2 weddings that we may attend in Texas this summer. Where it's really hot.
• You're looking at a hand-picked invisible zipper.
• What?
• I'm using my back up Bernina and I don't have an invisible zipper foot. I inserted it, by machine, with a regular zipper foot, but there was an unsightly gap, showing too much zipper. I solved it by meeting the edges of the fabric over the zipper, pressing and then using the prick stitch to secure in place. Not nearly as time consuming and as curse worthy as trying to pick out the black thread stitches from a cushy pique.
• Can you see the trim around the neckline? It's not quite as big and showy as the inspiration dress, but more of an understated style that suits me.
• I'm fine with those wrinkles in the back.

• Much lower cut that I anticipated. I do realize that I had complete control over that, but it wasn't until I tried it on for hem placement that I became completely aware of the cleavage factor. Well, it IS a LBD for going out.
• I tried to lighten up this picture a bit so you can see the underbust seaming detail. There is also a center front seam. Those seams enhance the fit over a simple shift. My muslin fit tighter, though I didn't make another muslin after I made the bodice changes and I think that affected the tightness and where the underbust seam hit on my body.

• You still can't really see the trim very well. I purchased it at M&J Trimmings, also on the NYC trip.

I really like how it turned out. I didn't line it (the heat factor), but did line the front bodice piece where I made the cut-out, simply sewing right sides together the lining and the bodice where I wanted my square, cutting out the center of the square, understitching the lining, and pushing it through to the inside.

The rest of the seams are serged. I did use regular neckline and armhole facings, pinking the edges because of the bulk factor, and catch-stitching them all to the inside. I used narrow hem lace at the hem which I made 2-5/8" deep (after cutting off 5"!! these patterns were made for tall women). The hem was slip-stitched.

Am I forgetting anything? Probably. How about a couple of parting shots:

Mad Men Challenge Update

I haven't mentioned this particular challenge lately, but that doesn't mean that things haven't been happening behind the scenes. In fact, I was really, really hoping to have it finished today, just in time for the premiere. Alas, it was not to be. I'm going to try to get some handsewing done on it tonight while I watch, but it's black, and it's night. Two factors that mean the possibility for success is low. We'll see.


In the meantime, I'll show you what I've chosen to do for the challenge. I'm going to challenge my inner young, cute, sexy secretary/nanny and am choosing this as my inspiration:

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And I'm using Simplicity 6094 as it's basis.

It's not for sale yet in my shop, but an eerily similar one is here. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it will be done tomorrow. Tuesday at the latest... be sure to check back!


And, sshhhhh, it's about to start!

Mad Men Challenge Pattern Choices

Before I dive into this post, just want to point out that I have activated the reply ability in the comments, so if you ask a question, that's where you can check back for an answer.


Okee-dokee. Where were we? Choosing a dress for the Mad Men Challenge. Well, frankly, I love them all, and may attempt to make, well, more than one of them this spring and summer, but no guarantees. For the challenge, I'm seriously leaning toward the black dress, for the simple reason that I can easily find black fabric. Is that cheating? Hmmm, no. I don't think so. For a review of the actual dress inspiration photos, go here or scroll down a little, it's just the post before last.


I spent yesterday tracing. I have an ample supply of vintage patterns, and I found 3 that may just work for several of the looks.

Simplicity 4003, a basic shirtdress. Mrs. Draper certainly wears a lot of these, and I do love the bodice on this one. Not as crazy about the skirt and the side zipper. Seriously, what is the point of buttoning up the front if you have to zip the side too. But this one has the simple, no yoke bodice silhouette, and 3/4 length sleeves for fall. I have other shirtdress patterns to look at, and will adapt the button opening to extend into the skirt, and really, make a much fuller skirt (possibly).

The sheath/wiggle dress from Butterick 2881 is the basic silhouette for many of Joan Holloway's dresses. The teal one is no exception. It does appear to have a wrap/tie style jacket over it, or perhaps she's wearing a skirt, top, jacket (but I don't think so). I have another pattern with a perfect buttonless jacket with a collar that I have plans for. Just a bit of tinkering might make it work (I haven't scanned it yet, but soon. Also, for that teal dress, I'm just not sure what fabric to make it out of. Any suggestions?

Finally, for the LBD, Simplicity 7509, which is about as basic as it gets, and is the perfect template for adding embellishments. It is basically a sloper, to get a perfect fit, and then make changes. If you read Carolyn's blog, you'll know that this is exactly what she does with her TNT dress pattern. If you don't read it, go check it out... she is a wealth of information.


Where was I? Oh yeah, I've got some ideas to play around with the cut out, so I hope to get a muslin made by early next week. The bonus of all these patterns for me, is that they are all my size.  I've traced them all though, so if you're still looking for your Mad Men Challenge pattern, they are available. Use the code MADMEN10 for 10% off! (You lovely readers can use that code for any of the patterns in my shop, not just these).

Mad Men Challenge: What to Make?

Two challenges/sew alongs (the Minoru and the Ruby Slip) recently committed and I'm ready for another one. The badge is already there... the Mad Men Challenge. Step 1 is what to make! So many gorgeous dresses and outfits make their appearance on Mad Men, but I want to choose one that will fit into my 2012 lifestyle. Then the challenge will be to find a pattern or patterns, and finally fabric. The fabric might be the hardest part! Oh, yeah, and narrowing down the choices.


Let's get right to those choices and see what I'm thinking about (in no particular order):

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Betty in dots. Cute, but maybe too cute. I do like the simple style though.

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Betty loves a good shirtdress for daytime wear (at least in the earlier seasons when she was married to Don). I love the sleeveless ones, there's a peach one that I found, but this is my favorite. Finding a good stripe will be the challenge though.

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More dots. Off white sheath with an adorable dotted sash. Less opportunity for wear for me though.

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I love the one on the right. Especially the color.

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Granted, a dressy, going out dress. But I have "make a LBD" on my  list of things to make, so it would be crossing off 2 things with one dress. Win-win! Of course, this might not be my final choice.


Which one do you like? Are you doing the challenge?

Me Made June

After doing a quick inventory of appropriate summer wear, I'm going to go for it! There are a few gaps, but I'll either try to fill them, or work around them. These are most noticeably in the jeans, capris, shorts category. Skirts and dresses everyday!! Yippee!!

I, Ellen, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-June '11. I endeavor to wear at least one self made or refashioned garment each day for the duration of June 2011.

One Last Top -- Vogue 8151

I meant to have this top done by Friday, and actually did have it cut out Friday afternoon, with plans to have an evening sew-a-thon when Mother Nature decided to have other ideas. Power went off at our house Friday around 7:30-ish, and by the time it came back on at 10:30 I was ready for bed.

Ah, well, I did make it yesterday, but not in time to take pictures before family demands. Excuses, excuses. Here it is:

I'm trying out a Patty Snug Bug superwoman pose. I like it! (the pose). Yes, the fabric really is that neon, as well. It's a Michael Miller interlock knit from fabric.com, and it is so soft! This Vogue 8151 pattern wasn't in my queue, but it was in my stash. I've had some wool jersey that was in a queue in my head until suddenly it was spring. Y'all know how that goes.

Anyway, back to the pattern. I made it have short sleeves, obviously, and cut out size C which was the largest in the envelope, and matched my measurements. I did a quick and dirty tissue fit, declared it good to go, and whacked away. I want to LOVE this top, but there are some nitpicky fit issues that make me only love it. Not that the general public will be able to tell, but I'll confess to you, so you can proceed accordingly should you choose to make this.

#1. The shoulders are just too darn wide. It wouldn't have mattered much if I had even gone down to the size A, because they were all basically the same. Next time, I'll have to scoop some off at the shoulder/sleeve line.
#2. I should have cut out the size B. Even though there are 1" seam allowances figured in for knit differences, it really should be snugger for the ruching to work right, and it's a little baggy on me (just a little), and I used every bit of the 1" SA and more.

Which brings me to #3. Apparently, I can't get it through my thick head that wraps, even faux crossover type wraps like this one, might need some adjusting. Thankfully, in the instructions, it guides you to baste the sides first for fitting. Yes, basting is WAY easier to pick out of knit. To achieve a wee bit of modesty, you can see in the above pic that I simply pulled the front piece out further than the back to tighten it up. I did it on both sides. Clearly, when I make this again, I'll do that adjustment prior to cutting out.

Finally, and this is not really a fit thing, just an annoying thing, the ruching on the sides is made with 1/4" elastic stretched between two small circles and zigzagged onto the seam allowance. Well, this particular interlock knit is a bit hefty, and the elastic just isn't enough to accomplish the goal. I tried with both regular and clear elastic, and ended up using 2 pieces of elastic per side, and it still isn't really gathered like in the picture. Not being as gathered meant I folded up 2 inches for the hem instead of the recommended 1 inch.

All of that sounds like I'm dissatisfied, but really, I'm not. Just a few things I'll pay more attention to the next time I use this pattern.

Onto bottoms!! (and my RTW jacket... mustn't forget that!)

Bits and Pieces

Just want to clear up some old business, and get ready for the new, so let's reflect:

Over the Top Challenge officially ends tomorrow, and on the 16th we switch over to the Bottoms Up Challenge. You can go to the Over the Top blog to sign up for the Bottoms Up if you aren't already in the top challenge. Perfect timing, I say. Here's the top tally:
1 pj top, 3-1/2 tops (the 1/2 being the RTW that I hemmed) plus a bonus top for Laura = 5-1/2 tops made. I have a couple more that I hope to get done by at least the end of April, if not sooner.

The RTW jacket sew along (click on the badge for more info) is moving along. My fabric has been block fused, and the pieces cut out, ready for sewing. It's conveniently bundled as recommended:

BTW, that's a new lining. The original lining I had chosen was too sheer and you could see the print through it.
The crescent skirt sew along (click on that badge) is about to begin next Monday (deadline for anyone filing taxes in the U.S., so some of you might be really busy this weekend). I've bought fabric for at least 4 or 5 of these skirts, but this is what I'm starting with:

You're thinking... "wait! Isn't that already a skirt". Well, indeed it is. I wore this in 1978 as an overskirt to the bridesmaids dress I wore in my cousin's wedding. She's now been divorced for years. Anyway, that's vintage Liberty of London cotton that will flatten out nicely and give me plenty of fabric I think when I take off the waistband that's about 10" around. Ok, maybe not 10", but it's shockingly tiny. Look at this fun detail:

Those are buttons down the front that I'm going to incorporate into the skirt by simply sewing it closed, leaving the buttons as details. And it will look great with my new chambray top!

Moving on, I've bought 2 voiles from the Anna Marie Horner collection (which I'm lazy and didn't take photos of), and several pieces of rayon shirting from fabric.com that have washed up gorgeously. The rayons have a wonderful drape and aren't too bulky for the gathering. Oh, here is a picture of a couple of them (the red will be a dress for Laura). Danny approves.

Then there's the jeans sew along (I'm wondering if I could somehow parlay these sew alongs into a kind of profession... are there professional sew alongers. If there are I want to join.). Oops, got sidetracked. Anyway, I have my patterns, but no denim yet. I do have some notions though. The jeans buttons? 12 of those babies for $1.80 at atlantathread.com.

I'm not planning to make 12 pairs of jeans (or even 3), but I do have that option now. And plenty of topstitching thread.

This post is getting kind of long, but the next section was named by Kyle, and he calls it $#!%@% My Mom Makes. First up, is a favor for a friend who will be turning this into a pillow:

And finally, a little knitting project from Itty-Bitty Toys. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Seeing Red -- More Tops Finished

Nope, I'm not mad, you'll see the red soon enough. Oh, what the heck... here's the first red:

This is New Look 6981, made from an organic cotton jersey knit from fabric.com. It had one "I hate it" review on Pattern Review, so I was a little worried, but I don't. Hate it, that is. In fact, in one afternoon, I actually made 2.

Why? Well, I bought 2 yards of this knit really on spec. I got these 2 tops perfectly out of the fabric, so the 2nd will go to daughter, Laura. Hope she wants a red cowl neck tee.

Some details. Both of us have really narrow shoulders, so I started with the 10 (Laura, pay no attention to these numbers) at the shoulders and necklines, front and back. As I traced down the armhole, I merged out to the 14, and then went straight 14 down the sides for Laura, and graded out to the 18 for me. The fabric is soft and kind of clingy, but I may just take in the bottom part of the sides on me, as it stands out just a bit. Holding it up for the picture, I may have to take the entire sides in for Laura. Her measurements matched the 14 perfectly though. To keep them apart as I sewed (and I made them simultaneously), when I was doing the back neckline facing, I inserted different color ribbon "tags." Laura got the black gingham one.

My right hip is a bit higher, so I think that explains the uneven looking hem. You can see better from the back how it flares out just a bit more than I would like at the hem.

But wait! There's a 3rd red top. This one is actually a RTW top from Ann Taylor that I bought last year on sale. I'm counting it as a half for the challenge though because it was too long, and I just never wanted to wear it. Since I had the coverstitch machine threaded with red, though there were no excuses. I chopped off 3 inches and rehemmed the darn thing. It's a little snug, but I'm back on Weight Watchers, so, fingers crossed, it will look better by summer.

I had kind of forgotten about it when I ordered the red jersey. Oh well. Boy, do I need a haircut.

McCalls 5522 -- Top #2 -- Done!

There were 2 button front tops in my haul from Faye's giveaway, and originally, I had planned to make the Simplicity one for this challenge. In a last minute change of thought, I went with McCalls 5522 instead. I made View B, without any sleeves.

I really had not anticipated it taking me all week, so I'm a little behind schedule in both this challenge and the RTW Jacket sew along. Hopefully, this weekend, I can make better progress. Luckily, I have a couple easier knit tops that will be next in line (and have just been added to the queue), to help that along.

This was my test photo and other than the lighting (doesn't it look sunny?), and I wanted to show off the iris behind me. I had nothing to do with them as they came with the house. Right after the self-timer went off, it started raining and my outdoor photo session came to an abrupt halt.

Back to the top... I love it! The fabric is chambray from fabric.com. This envelope had the sizes 12-20 in it, and it was perfect. I started with the 12 at the shoulders, used the size 12 line for the armscyes, ending at the size 14 line for the rest of the upper pieces. For the lower pieces, I started at the 14 line, and graded my way out to the 16 for the hips. I ended up using more like 3/8" seamlines for the lower pieces, except at the top where it connects to the upper, because while it fit, it just felt a little snug.

Inside now. The back fits pretty well. I possible should have scooped in just a bit for the sleeveless-ness look, but that's a minor quibble.

I tried to crop in up close for the topstitching which is kind of a light khaki color that I feel like blends really well, but still adds some interest. The "buttons" are really snaps that I just found for a quarter at a recent estate sale. You can really see them that well (can you click on the photo and see it larger--maybe) but they look like regular white shirt buttons. They probably didn't go on any quicker though, because there was a learning curve for getting them "installed". One button was crushed from over vigorous hammering. When they mean place it upside down on a thick fabric pad, well, they kind of mean it.