A Little Bit of Sewing Planned

Well, where is Wilma on Wednesday? This is a sewing blog after all, so tonight... some sewing previews. No cooking. I'm not quite organized enough to have a "fall sewing plan", but I do have a few things lined up. At least in my mind.


The first show and tell is a UFO that I started 2 years ago. It's 99.9% finished. Just some thread clipping and some minor fixing on the binding.

I think I'll be listing it the Jenna Belle shop, unless I decide I want to keep it for myself. Oh, and get this. It was apparently about 95% finished when I put it away 2 years ago. It needed about an hour's worth of quilting (maybe less), and then the binding. Do you do that? Get almost finished with a project?


Is anyone interested in learning how to make a continuous bias strip? I think I'll do a quick tutorial (not today though).


Now, back to some sewing for me. Self stitched September is kind of right around the corner, and I don't just want to wear all the June stuff again. First up, a knit dress. Still sleeveless, but it will still work here in the south. It's been cut out. Hmmm, can't really read the number. It's Vogue 8553.

Then, I'm using one of my vintage pattern finds. It has some pieces missing... the back facing and the armhole facing, and the Peter Pan collar. I drafted a new back facing, I'm using bias tape for the armholes, and no collar. Oh, and I'll be grading it up just a few sizes. It might end up just being a top, too. Creative license and the fact that I might not have quite enough fabric. Almost positive there won't be any ruffles!

The fabric is a vintage madras that I've had in my stash forever. And that's it. Even more patterns are lined up, and including 4 or 5 I just bought in the last Big 4 sale that are winging their way to me.


Fall sewing... here I come!

Another Quick Skirt

It's just me and the dogs this week as Roland and Kyle have gone to North Carolina for a little father/son bonding, so that means SEWING! OK, well, I sew even when they're home, but now I don't have to feel guilty when I don't want to stop and cook them dinner.


I'm still doing some secret sewing, but I managed to make myself another quick yoga skirt. Not too many changes, but a few. I made this one out of ITY jersey and made the waistband a little smaller since the jersey seemed stretchier. I also made it less full, and a little shorter. And, while it seems totally foreign to me, I didn't hem it. But there's one surprising thing I added.

Well, nothing surprising here in the picture (other than it's not the usual "on me" look). But I've been wanting something to sort of "immortalize" my sewing. Quilters put labels on their quilts, kind of like signing their art, and I wanted to "sign" my creations.


So, I placed an order to Etsy seller Baby Jewels, and got me a custom rubber stamp. Woo hoo! I used it in that polka dot top, but forgot to mention it, and for that I simply stamped right on the inside back neck (where a label would go). I used a VersaCraft ink pad, and I honestly can't remember who I ordered it from so that link is just to show you the description.


For the skirt, I stamped on an ivory grosgrain ribbon and then attached it like a label.

TA DA!

The Detoured is part of the name of my other blog (that I seemed to have detoured from posting to), and I just kind of like the word. It's also my general feeling of having to take detours from the life path I'm on. And besides, having the stamp is just fun.

Multiple Choice

When you see the top pictured below, you think:

a) cute babydoll
b) I want one for my toddler
c) boho chic
d) Amy Butleresqe
e) when's the baby due
f) serendipitously spectacular

Do you sense some ambivalence? I used this pattern, and saw lots of possibilities.

It's a super easy pattern, and the only change I made was to line the top instead of doing the facings. I used the burrito method so that the neckline and armholes are all magically machine stitched. I don't know if that's the technical name, but you can find the method described here.

I really will wear it because, you know, it will be 150 deg., plus 347% humidity most of the summer here, and it's cool. Not kewl cool, but I won't be hot (in any sense of the word sadly).

The funny thing is that while I was sewing, I kept thinking of other combinations in my stash that just might work. And I think as a dress, it will be a better look for me. One that will make me do this:

Not Quite a Muslin, Not Quite a Wadder

I can already knock the first 2 things off my list!

As planned, I made this top, intending to use it as a summer pj top. Out of character, I cut size 12, without first making any changes. (Usually, I can't resist tinkering with the fit before I do anything.) I made view D (the yellow one) without the flower, and with a tie closure (like view A). I also made some pj shorts, that took probably less than an hour to make. I used what is essentially my TNT pj pants pattern, but did make one big change (other than cutting it off for shorts). [how many times can YOU use sentences with parentheses in one paragraph!!]

How did it go? Well, it's a super easy top to make. I didn't use the facings, but instead used a bias strip, and stitched it to the outside for a contrast. It turns out, I didn't have enough fabric to make the shorts and top matching, so I used the shorts fabric for the sleeves, ties and bias strips. The sleeves are also finished with bias strips, a nice detail.

 I also really like the split sleeve. But the fit. All the problems are in the chest area. Yep, lots of gaping, necessitating a snap. Also, the darts are a little high. This is not going to become one my Over the Top tops, mostly because I can't be bothered to make those changes. Maybe later in the summer though. For pjs it's fine.

For the shorts, I made these babies as easy as possible! First, I used my coverstitch machine to hem the shorts and the top. Then, instead of a waistband with elastic, I used the coverstitch again, this time to attach the elastic.

Cute, huh? I folded over the top of the shorts 1/2" and pressed. The elastic is 5/8" and I wanted just a bit to show. Then I just cut the elastic a little snugger than my waist measurement, stitched the ends together, divided the elastic into quarters, pinned it at the side seams and front and back seam, and stretched as I stitched. That's it!

Two Quickies

Yesterday, I wanted to post that I made 2 things in ONE day. But. After spending at least an hour changing the thread on my serger and coverstitch, and then an evening meeting, well, it didn't happen. So, 2 things in TWO days. Ok, not as impressive, but what can ya do?!

Simplicity 2603

With temperatures nearing 70 today in Atlanta (note the sandals), you would think that I would be firmly in spring season mode, but this yummy knit from Gorgeous Fabrics was washed and ready to go, and if it hadn't been for Mary Lou, it would have been made 2 weeks ago. [No need to remind me that the temps were high then, too.]

Anyway, not much to say about it. The knit was extremely stretchy, so I machine basted each seam before serging, and I used 5/8" stitch witchery to hold the hem in place while I coverstitched it. Made the small and lengthened the sleeves to be regular sleeves instead of that sleeve band thing, just because. It will be cozy in the fall. OH, look at me! I'm ahead of schedule! And see, there are still leaves on the ground.

Vogue 8649

Not too much to say about this either. The only change I made was to grade out to the 14 from just above the waistline to the hem, and cut about 3" off the hem. Got my hands on my hips to disguise the muffin top, so spanx would be good here.  Or maybe a little Weight Watchers. Oh, shortened the sleeves, too. I should have made a sway back adjustment, because the back is a little wonky. It's a little va-va-voom, so I'll be wearing a tank under it (that might help with the muffins).

Vintage Vogue Special Design 4350 or Mary Lou is Finished!

Mary Lou made her debut yesterday at the Junior Achievement black tie event. First, remember this?

And now, without further ado:

At this angle, you can't really see the petticoat very well. How about this?

A back view (where there are some unfortunate wrinkles but more petticoat showing):

A few observations:

• The sleeves don't stay on my shoulders that well as I opted not to put in the recommended elastic. I just had to go with an off the shoulder look after fussing with it the first hour or so.
• I'm not that happy with the fit over the bust. It looked great in the cotton muslin that is more form fitting than the stiff taffeta. Oh well.
• I need a different strapless bra.
• Tulle is itchy even over the polyester lining that it was sewn to.
• The entire outfit is probably highly flammable.
• The sleeve seam became not really noticeable. Something I was initially worried about.
• For a formal dress, it is actually very comfortable (aside from the itchy tulle and slipping shoulders). Primarily because I didn't need any belly smooshing undergarments.
• The pattern includes instructions and a pattern piece to make a belt. I just happened to have a RTW belt from another dress that matches perfectly.

 My photo shoot buddy, Danny

The Experimental Tee -- Vogue 8670

I've called this tee that I just finished experimental because while it's kind of a muslin, it's more than a muslin. Huh? I'm not really a believer in wearable muslins, as the times I've needed to make a muslin, the finished garment would have been anything but wearable. So, this is more like an experiment in fabric use, and in practicing my new coverstitch.

A reminder of the pattern:

Originally, I had planned to make the scrunch-necked turtleneck (view C). After reading reviews, though, I got nervous. People didn't like the effect of the neck, and overall said it was too big. But still, I wanted to try it out, and toyed with the idea of playing around with the turtle collar to make it look like the picture. I had some baby blue cotton interlock though, that I also wanted to use with this pattern to make the short-sleeved tee to use as a pj top.

And that's what I decided to go with first. PJs are safe, because if the fit isn't quite right, then who really cares?! Plus, the pattern pieces are all the same, so I would be able to test the neckline. Here's the result:

I cut the straight size 14 with only one alteration. I took 3" off the length. And it is still about an inch longer than I would like. With the exception of the darts, I made the entire thing on my serger, and did the hems with my coverstitch. Practice is still needed there, but overall I'm pleased. You know. For a pj top. That doesn't actually match the pants.

It's roomy, but not huge, and I think it fits pretty well around the hips, where I usually grade out farther than the 14. I was surprised that only 4 people had reviewed this pattern, but perhaps it's the raglan sleeves. The cotton interlock is from Gorgeous Fabrics, is super soft, and comes as a complete circle of fabric, like a huge tube. I had enough left over to make a cami that won't have side seams. It will also be an experiment with foldover elastic, and I'm thinking it's doubtful I'll be modeling that! Maybe on my dress form.

I've decided to look for a different scrunch turtleneck pattern, but I've had to rearrange my sewing list! Turns out, in 2 weeks, we'll be attending a formal dinner, and I know just what I want to make. Look for the muslin (a real muslin) perhaps this weekend.

The Queue

I managed to get one thing completely sewn in January. The raincoat. But there is so much that I have lined up, and I actually have fabric (or have ordered fabric), so like my UFOs, I'm going to put it out there, and hopefully I'll pick up some momentum.

One thing that will really help, is that I bought a coverstitch machine! It's still in the box, though, as my basement redo is not finished. It may just stay unfinished, for the moment, but it is considerably better. Still I have some things I want to make before winter is over. It would seem there is no fear of that happening from the amount of snow being dumped on the U.S. right now, but Atlanta is blissfully snow free. (Hopefully I didn't just jinx things.)

First up:

I plan to make View C in a gray knit I bought in Maryland in September. I hope I won't turn as green as the poor girl in the picture!

Not sure which one of these will be next, but I have fabric for both:

[Interesting how these pictures turned out... seems I scanned them as illustrations, and not photos.]

Finally, a vintage pattern that I bought from The Blue Gardenia.

My inspiration is this Talbots jacket in their spring catalog:

I may work on this while I'm working on the knit tops, as it's definitely going to be a more involved process.

In the meantime, I'm still working on turning UFOs into FOs, and this week has been successful. More on that on Friday.

Raincoat Sneak Peek

Do you remember this pattern that I previously made for Laura?

Well, I've been working on mine all week with finally something to show for it.

I'm using the same black raincoating fabric that I used for Laura's, so this, obviously, is the lining. Originally, I had purchased this Amy Butler twill for a vintage shirtdress, but the reality is that the color is all wrong for me, and actually, I kinda don't like it. However, I do kinda like it for a lining. I wanted the sleeves to be slippery (lesson learned after I made Laura's), and had this silvery silk (poly?) charmeuse in my stash.

For the exterior topstitching, this is what I'm going with (ignore any wonky topstitching that you might see... I'm goin' with it):

And one final, nagging reminder to comment on the giveaway. I'll announce the winner(s) tomorrow!

The Perfect PJ's

Do you have that favorite thing that you always wear, that fits perfectly, and, when it starts to wear out, you think, hmmm, I think I can make a new one? That would describe my favorite pair of flannel pj pants, and early last fall, I bought the flannel, but never got around to them (what with Lady Grey taking over my sewing projects... and, ok, a few other things). Then I read about the press and seal pattern copying method over on Lindsey T's blog. Great!

But then, I ran into a wee little problem. These pj's are worn, and the cotton is stretched and distorted. I could tell when I drew the crotch seam that this was just not going to work. I pressed on though, because I have a pj pattern.

Well, I couldn't actually find the instruction book, but I found the pattern pieces, XS-XXXL all on one page. Great! But my RTW pants fit perfectly, so I just lined them up and traced the shape that most readily fit. No measurements were taken in the making of these pants. Get this... for the front piece, I traced the XS! You read that right. eXtra Small! For the back piece, I traced the large, for the waist width, but used the crotch seam for the small. And I narrowed the leg width on the back. Due to fabric limitations, I had to make the capri length. It would have taken several adjustments with a muslin to come up with that configuration, so using the perfectly fitting RTW as a guide worked great. At least for a simple garment like this.

Over at K-Line, Kristin is trying to reproduce her favorite bra, and it took some destruction. But I didn't want to go that route with my pj's, so I'm happy to show you, for about 4 or 5 hours of my time, start to finish:

Got 'em on right now!

And with a tummy full of blackeyed peas, here's hoping the rest of my 2011 goes just as smoothly, and yours, too!

The Art of Muslining

Do you muslin? Is that even a verb? Back when I was a skinny, little thing I didn't. I just whacked away at the pattern, trusting the measurements on the envelope. But then much time past, and now that I'm "more mature" so to speak, my body has lumps and bumps and measurements that certainly fall across several size ranges as I go top to toe.

But having said that, I still resist, and I don't do it with every garment. The Mondo top... nope, no muslin. The Lady Grey coat, 3(!) muslins. Actually, I find that even though the lovely Colette Patterns are more "true to size" than the Big 4, I still cross the size ranges, AND the designs are more fitted, and they especially need to be muslined.

[And aside, since I'm on the subject, my idea of muslin is not to make it wearable. Oh, no. I think wearable muslin is a misnomer anyway. If you are making a garment out of some kind of fashion fabric, even cheap, expendable, fabric, and you have the idea that you might wear it out in public, then I call that simply practice, and it certainly has its place in sewing... I've done it, too.]

So, yeah. Here's the pattern that is up next:

And here's what the muslin looks like on me:

Kind of like an ill-fitting nurse's dress, truth be told. I was going to make it out of green satin and sequins, but the direction has totally changed now, and I think I'll surprise you. The point of this post is to say "reading" a muslin takes some practice. I'd say I'm an advanced beginner at this point. Some things I've learned:

• First, check out Pattern Review to see what quirks others have discovered. Might save some time if you're looking out for a particular issue.
• Cut out one size to start with and go from there. Did I do that? No.
• I don't really have narrow shoulders, but rather the area under my neck and above the boobs, in between my arms, is kind of narrow.
• Sleeve fit/armscye fit is really difficult. Even for pattern makers. This length looks right for me, but I'll have to add the hem.
• Colette Patterns are notoriously short bodiced, and short in length.
• Don't get obsessed. You can over fit a pattern.
• This muslin is misleading. I have actually redone the front yoke to take into account the narrow chest issue.

And... I'm ready to cut. I'm not going to use the muslin as pattern. I am going to make the seam allowance of the skirt and the midriff pieces 1". My fashion fabric has a bit of stretch, but I want some leeway. I'm also going to put the zipper in the center back and not the side.

That's it. I learn a lot from each muslin I make, both about the garment construction and about my own shape. I can't wait to get started on this dress. Finally. Of course, there is all that pesky Christmas stuff that must be done this weekend, too, so I'm not sure how much sewing I'll get done.

Sequins by the 24th

Have you ever sewn with sequins? I've used sequin trim, but I don't think I've ever done anything with a sequin covered tulle-ish kind of fabric. And I'm on a deadline! Tomorrow, I'm off on a huge adventure to hang out with 8 wonderful artists I've met on Etsy, but never in person. I'll try to update while I'm there, but we may just be having too much fun to turn on computers!

When I get back, I'll have about 5 days to make a dress for a fundraiser Roland and I are attending on the 24th. The dress code is "fun and festive", and I turned to Colette Patterns for what I'm hoping is the perfect dress. I've started a muslin, and finished the bodice to discover some sleeve/shoulder adjustments need to be done, and I'm simply out of time. Anyway, here's the fabric. Feel free to leave sequin sewing tips... I'm gonna need them!

Too Ambitious, But Some Progress

Didn't quite get everything done yesterday that I hoped to. Actually, didn't even finish it today. That darn Lady Grey coat is still not cut out. My fancy dress muslin didn't get made, but the pattern has been traced. Maybe tomorrow for those two, but I have to pack for the first of my two upcoming trips. First, back to Nashville for Parent's Weekend, and then later next week, California (more on that trip later).

I did finish the purple knit DKNY (Vogue 1194), and pictures are here!

So, I didn't really make too many changes. I cut out the 14, and there was plenty of ease to avoid needing more width around the waist and hips. I did sew up 1" of the V after trying it on. Just a bit too plunging. I plan to wear it with black tights or leggings, and I think it needs to be a bit shorter. Plus, I think the front is longer than the back, but it's just going to stay that way for now. I want to wear it this weekend, and I'm out of purple thread. And time.

Biggest change was on the back, where I made a swayback alteration. That might be why the back is a bit shorter, and I should have added the inch from the back bodice onto the hem. How the back looks:

Oh, I bought one of those invisible lines bras from Soma. Looks reasonably smooth.

So, onto the fun footwear. I have this strange bruise/bunion thing happening on my right foot, and I bought these cute boots (booties?). I tried the edgy look with polka dot socks:

Looks more Wicked Witch of the East with dots instead of stripes than edgy to me.

Hot patent leather shoes from Ann Taylor? I love these shoes, and surprisingly didn't hurt that badly, but I won't be wearing them this weekend.

I think these would look good with black tights or sheer stockings, too.

Finally, the boots with the leggings tucked in:

This is how you'll see me this weekend. And notice my hands in the pockets. Some of the other reviewers on Pattern Review left the pockets off, but I really like them, and this heavier weight knit hides them pretty well.

Bohemian Butterick 5046

Now, this was a fast pattern to make, just as Butterick promised... Fast & Easy!








I've broken a some home sewing rules here, the biggest of which is to not use quilting fabric to make garments. Well, at least if you're an adult. First a picture:

I bought this Andover Fabric design from Whipstitch Fabrics here in Atlanta. I originally was planning to make the dress (view B), but making it a shorter length will be more functional when it starts to get cooler. And it will get cooler. Really.

Things I like:

• the colors and batik-y look of the fabric.
• the 3/4 length sleeve, which you may notice that I narrowed, taking out the hippie-angled hem.
• the bias contrast edging on the neckline and sleeve hem.
• the great Australian timber button I purchased from my Etsy friend, Kylie, in her supply shop, Meluna Beads.
• I'll be able to wear this over jeans or leggings (though I'm not really a leggings girl).

Things I don't like:

•  this cotton isn't a silky feeling cotton, like apparel cotton, but has a more homespun feel. And it's kind of scratchy.
• the sleeves could be just a skootch shorter.
• is it too long for me? I'm kind of thinking that I might shorten it just a bit, maybe an inch, but I might just leave it as is.
• the shoulders are just a bit wide.
• I will always have to wear a cami, or some kind of top under it, as the V is just a bit deep and gappy which is my own fault, as I didn't do any kind of pre-fitting.
• the too-wide shoulders lead to all those wrinkles and extra fabric around the sleeves on the back.

 So, my first fall garment, and I'm mostly happy with it, and it will get some wear. And I was pretty darn excited that I could actually zip up my jeans, albeit with the laying on the bed method. Eek! Good thing the point counting has started.

For my sister: gratuitous picture of avocado plant that I started from a seed.

Simplicity 2369 -- the Dots are Done

After what seemed like a long wait for some vintage buckles, they arrived on Wednesday, and I finished the polka dot dress today. By the way, I got the buckles from Surrender Dorothy, and while the first set got lost in the mail, Veronica was very sweet, and sent out a second set (being vintage, it was lucky that she had more). I highly recommend shopping with her!

Oh, wait, you really want to see the dress!

The truth is, I'm not in love with it. I want to be, but I'm not. In spite of waiting for the perfect buckle, I should have done the version that just ties with a bow because this fabric is too slippy, and the tie end that goes through the buckle wants to just slip out. I'll play around with it a bit, but I think I may end up knotting it somehow after threading it through. We'll see.

I am happy that it isn't too clingy, which I was a bit worried about. I made it wider through the hips, and I think that alteration worked fine to eliminate the clinginess. And the pattern was super easy, so that's a plus!

I may end up wearing a stretchy white camisole underneath for modesty. Otherwise, not something I'm gushing about, but not too bad.

Color Opinion, Please

Muslin #2 of the raglan sleeve bodice top has been completed, and it has more red sharpie marks on it. I'm contemplating going back to the original, making it without any alterations (as a muslin), and altering the muslin from that. I think I may have distorted the original just a wee bit too much, and it's starting to be weird.

When I was going through some old fabric of my mom's though, I found one that might be a good match for the top. To refresh your memory, this is the pattern:

And the new color combination, with the blue for the bodice:

Yes? No? Are you crazy? And if I can find it, a patent yellow wide belt, and yellow shoes? It would certainly be colorful! But, would it be too much?